Yes! All timber products will need treating to keep them stable. All timber will expand as it takes on moisture from the air in your home, and contract in drier weather. Finishing slows this process right down and is critical to keep your products straight and functioning correctly.
We offer a pre finishing service on some of our products so we can do all the hard work for you, or if you prefer you can pre finish your own products on site. We’ll happily advise on what finishes to use, or we can also supply good quality finishes for your project.
We use primarily European Oak as this gives a great balance of character, particularly in rustic Oak. We typically use French oak from the northern half of the country. We use a range of grades depending on the product from prime grades through to mid rustic grades. We don’t use the lower end grades as these contain too many knots and splits.
There are a few products where we use American white oak as only American oak comes in lengths above 3m, needed for items like skirting and some handrails.
We take great care with colour matching and with the commercial oak grades available today it actually takes an extremely practiced eye to tell the difference between European and American oak.
For our ledged doors we use a Scandinavian Vths redwood (pine). We only use pine sourced from mills in the northern areas of Sweden and Finland.
Timber from these areas is slower grown due to the colder weather and shorter summers. This results in more dense stable timber, which whilst it is more expensive to buy, does create a much better product
Yes, whilst its true that we are oak specialists, we also manufacture some of our products in pine. Ledged doors are available in pine are are some of our stairparts lines
We all have a responsibility to look after our environment, and as manufacturers using timber as a raw material this is especially relevant to us. Fortunately within the timber industry, there are voluntary schemes available that provide a route for manufacturers to ensure that their timber is legally and ethically sourced. Annual audits by an external inspection body provide reassurance to our customers that the scheme is correctly implemented.
We hold a PEFC Chain of Custody certificate (SA-PEFC/COC-005334) which is audited annually by the Soil Association. Up to date information on our audits dates and certificate validity can be found here: Heritage PEFC Registration
As part of that system, all of the timber we purchase is processed through a Due Diligence System. This ensures that no timber is used that could be harvested illegally for example. We give preference to timber that itself holds Chain of Custody certification and many of the products we supply are sold under our PEFC licence. PEFC certified raw materials are produced under the sustainability requirements of the PEFC system.
Our timber products also feature a short supply chain. Our timber is mostly sourced from mainland Europe and almost all of our timber products are manufactured in our factory in the UK. Compare this with oak doors manufactured in the Far East, with timber shipped firstly from America to the Far East, before the finished item is shipped back around the globe to the UK.
Certainly. We work with over 1,000 outlets from builders merchants to DIY stores to flooring and door specialists across the UK (and beyond). We believe that the choice of who to buy from is one for the consumer, and we will support and assist with your purchase of our products whoever you would prefer to buy them through.
If you would prefer to work with a local stockist then please let us know this and we will advise you of where your nearest outlet is. We are happy to provide parts lists etc for you to take to them, and in many instances we have agreements with them that allow us to physically ship the goods direct to you even for purchases you have made with them. Many of our stockists have displays and brochures in store.
We operate a Recommended Retail Price policy so there will be little or no difference in the pricing whether you buy from us or from your local stockist.
In short they help to stop your door warping! Timber shrinks and expands and we need to give it room to do this.
Oak, like any timber, has a moisture content (m/c), typically around 8-10% by weight for kiln dried oak. As this m/c increases, the oak expands, and conversely as it decreases the oak shrinks. Oak will attempt to equalise its m/c with the relative humidity of your home.
The problem we face is that each home has a different humidity level, and indeed your homes humidity level will vary significantly over the year. As central heating is used in winter, and doors and windows left open in summer for example. Add into that the doors are often put into temporarily high humidity environments, such as refurbishment projects with drying plaster and water based paints, and its hard to know how the door will react.
In very high humidity environments such as the refurbishment examples above, if the doors are left without being finished, the boards can expand so much that the expansion gaps are used up. After that the door would bow. This is why we always recommend finishing the door as soon as possible, as the finish slows down any m/c changes.
Therefore we deliberately build your ledged door with expansion gaps. Essentially we move the tongue and grooved boards slightly apart during assembly. This gives them room to grow but also ensures they are fitted close enough together that you will not see gaps.
We make thousands of doors per month, so this is part of the skill and experience we put into each door.
No, we don’t provide the glass within any of our door designs as our customers prefer to choose their own type of glass and install it on site. We do supply one side of the door with fixed glass beading and the other side loose so that can be fitted one the glazing has been installed.
Oak, like any timber, will react to significant changes in the humidity of the environment that it is stored in, particularly prior to having a surface finish applied. Oak will expand across its width and thickness, (but not its length), as it takes on moisture. Your door has been manufactured from carefully kiln dried oak with a moisture content in the region of 8-10% which is ideal for use in normal indoor environments, however please read the information below.
To avoid problems the doors must be stored away from building works that can generate an increased humidity such as plastering or decorating work, particularly in their unfinished state. Failure to follow this step can lead to the door taking on moisture which will cause swelling. Your door has been designed with built in expansion gaps to allow expansion of the timber without causing bowing, but these only provide so much protection and once gone any further expansion of the door will almost certainly lead to bowing.
Claims for twisting, bowing, shrinking or swelling that are moisture related whilst the doors are not sealed or stored correctly will be rejected. Doors should always be stored flat, on a level surface and clear of the floor on at least 3 level full width bearers.
Handling your Door
Your door has been supplied shrinkwrapped and with corner protection, however it is very heavy and easy to damage if not handled correctly. The door should never be dragged across other doors or surfaces. Light surface marks can be easily sanded out.
No, our doors aren’t currently fire rated, however we have had customers that have used intumescent varnish which is provides an FD30 fire rating which has been accepted by their building inspectors.
This all depends really on the size and grade of your doors. For example select rustic and prime doors will always have a set number of boards depending on the width. Rustic doors are designed to give a cost effective option and the number of boards can vary even within the same door width.
Most oak ledged doors have 4-6 boards per door, however please speak to our sales team who will be able to advise you once you know the sizes of your doors. All of the oak we use comes from 150 and 175mm raw material, for all three grades of oak door.
Pine is not available in the same widths as oak and so pine ledged doors will generally have more boards, typically 6-8 per door. We use 125mm raw material to make these doors. However the material is more consistent and so board numbers will remain constant on these doors.
Many of the ledged door product pages contain dimensioned drawings that will give you further information although we recommend you call for advice if this is important to your project
A major option available in all of our solid oak ledged doors is whether you choose V Groove or Bead & Butt profile vertical boards. This refers to the moulded edge we machine into each board, which when two boards are assembled together creates a particular profile. Each board is assembled in specific way to ensure the door is resistant to warping and to create the classic looks of each profile.
V Groove doors tend to give a subtle and clean look to the door and work particularly well in period cottages or barn conversions.
Bead & Butt profile doors add some extra detail and would often have been used in larger properties reflecting the additional work that would have gone into making them at that time.
With modern machining techniques we can produce either board in the same time, and so we do not charge a premium for either profile . We prefer this as it leaves you free to choose which board you feel best suits your project.
The internal ledged doors are 40mm thick – the vertical boards are 20mm thick and the horizontal boards (the ledges) are 20mm thick giving you an overall thickness of 40mm.
Large 18”/450mm strap hinges and “Suffolk” or “thumblatches” are the best products to use on a ledged door. Heritage supplies door hardware kits, specially designed to take the weight of a solid oak door. Hinges should always be installed over the ledges, with latches installed as per the diagram which you will find in the fitting instructions on the ledged door product pages. The screws are supplied within the bracing pack.
You’ll find images of each grade on the ledged door product pages and there is some further information on our oak grades below
Rustic oak doors are designed to match the style of timber that would have been used in period to make this style of door. We keep all of the character that you find in rustic oak, from colour variation to minor splits and large knots.
Anything that is a larger feature we will fill for you however by default we leave the door unfilled to retain all of its natural charm. This door will not be for everyone, but for a period cottage, this is as original and rustic as it gets.
Select rustic ledged doors take all the great features of our rustic ledged doors but significantly upgrade the timber used. These are by far our most popular door, as they offer a great balance with enough knots and features to create a rustic cottage feel but without the large features found in our normal rustic doors. Where we find a knot that shows daylight we will still use filler, but this is generally in a small area only.
Braces are the diagonal boards seen on many ledged doors, creating a “ledged and braced” door. These braces were historically added to brace the door to stop it from sagging over time.
We assemble your new ledged doors with a unique 3 stage process. As well as gluing and pinning all the major components, the door is then hydraulically pressed. There are no other companies making ledged doors made this way because it is slower and more expensive.
The result is an immensely strong door. This means that you do not require braces. We still make them available as the traditional look of a ledged and braced door is appealing to many of our customers, but they are not structurally necessary with our doors.
Our internal ledged oak doors are constructed by gluing and pining the ledges to the doors. We don’t fill the nail holes as some prefer them unfilled and it would just add more cost to the doors. The door is then hydraulically pressed at enormous pressure to ensure a flat door with ledges that fit poperly.
Our internal/external oak doors are hand crafted by using mortice and tenon joints. We use a blend of traditional skills with ultra modern machinery. All of these doors are also pressed into shape to give the strongest door possible. The combination of this plus the mortice and tenon joints makes the door extremely sturdy.
If you fit your door with the boarded side inwards, ie towards the door stops with the ledges flush to the edge of the door frame, it can be hard to fit the thumblatch assembly. In these circumstances its often helpful to be able to raise the level of the door in the area to the same height as the ledges. A lock block is a 20mm thick pieces of matching timber that can be fitted to the surface of the ledged side of the door to provide a pad onto which the latch can be installed.
That is not a problem at all to buy a block separately. However if you have purchased our door hardware or bracing pack please remember that these are included in the packs.
Yes, all of our solid oak doors you can trim down. Be careful with ledged doors not to cut into the pins on the ledges.
Also remember that whilst you can cut down the doors you can often be left with a door that looks less than ideal. If you shorten the doors, the ledges can appear too close to the top and bottom. Trimming the doors width can leave you with narrow boards on the edge of the door.
An alternative is to order a door built to your required size. As well as saving you a lot of work, we will automatically reposition the ledges, and vary the board widths and positions to ensure you get a door that looks right. All of our doors have this option available within the online ordering system and the additional cost is not prohibitive.
That is not a problem, we manufacture to almost any size you require. Within the listings you can choose if you need a non standard size, whether that’s larger or smaller than standard. To make life easier, there is a fixed price system for most custom doors, anything up to 950mm wide x 2100mm high.
However if you have a door that is even larger than this (what kind of house are you living in, show us pictures?!) then we can still make it for you, but it will cost a bit more due to the increased amount of timber. If its particularly large we may also need to explore different delivery options with you to ensure that the door gets to you undamaged.
In these circumstances please contact us with the size you require, our friendly sales team will be able to advise you.
Timber expands as it picks up moisture from the surrounding air, but only in certain directions. It will expand across its width and thickness, however it will not expand along its length. This can cause issues as it can set up tensions in a door, typically where boards are at 90 degrees to each other such as is seen with the vertical boards and the horizontal ledges on a ledged door.
As the verticals expand sideways, the ledge will not expand lengthways to accomodate this movement. We build all our ledged doors with expansion gaps between the vertical boards. These allow for some growth in the verticals but these can only provide so much protection. Once these gaps are “used up” the door will bow around the ledge as it tries to cope with the difference in sizes.
The solution is to get the moisture content of the door back down to a normal level. Often this is simply a case of time, where the door has reacted to added moisture in the air such as drying plaster or water based paints. Ensure that the source of the additional humidity is removed, and the heating is on at normal temperatures. Ensuring good airflow is available through the house will help. Over a period of 3-4 weeks, as the timber moisture content reduces back down you should see the door start to return back to its normal shape, and the expansion gaps will reappear between the boards.
Whether to use solid or engineered oak flooring depends primarily on whether you are installing over underfloor heating.
Engineered oak flooring is more resistant to the humidity and temperature changes that underfloor heating can cause and therefore this is the safest choice.
It is possible to use solid oak flooring over underfloor heating but you should be aware that you are likely to see a slight opening up of the joints between the boards. Many customers do not want this and therefore should avoid using solid in this environment. However its worth noting that old solid oak flooring rarely doesn’t have gaps! Its in the nature of timber to move slightly over time, so if you are happy to approach flooring from this perspective then solid oak becomes an option.
There are a number of ways to install your flooring and it all depends on what your sub floor is. If you have a wooden flat service, you can use our tongue tite screws to fit the floor or you can glue the flooring down.
If you have a concrete floor, we usually recommend gluing the flooring down.
All our flooring fitting instruction are available which will tell you in much more detail how to fit the flooring. However, if you do require more technical advice, please don’t hesitate to contact us.
The solid oak flooring is supplied in 1.2 – 2.4m lengths. You should allow for around 10% under 1.2m, and these pieces are perfect for starting off new runs
The oak flooring is manufactured by Heritage in our Sheffield factory. This means you can buy by the sqm. This particular flooring is traditional solid oak, so it isn’t supplied in a box
The oak flooring is delivered on a pallet, depending how many sqm you order, this is usually delivered via one of our pallet companies. If you require further information regarding deliveries, please see our delivery section of the website or contact our sales team
The solid oak and engineered flooring can be supplied either pre finished or unfinished. We have a lot of colours to offer should you wish to change the colour of the oak, if not the clear options are available which keeps the natural colour of the oak. Should you need more info, just ask our sales team. You can always purchase a sample to make sure you are ordering the right colour for you.
For all installations, the rail should be set at a suitable height for use. Bannister handrails are typically set at 900mm above the front end of the tread measured vertically to the top of the handrail but you may prefer to set the rail slight lower to suit your requirements.
Rails are available in 2.4m, 3.6 and 4.2m lengths. You will need 3, 4 or 5 brackets depending on the length of rail you choose. If you buy a kit, this the number of brackets you will receive. You should set 2 brackets around 100mm in from each end of the rail, with the remainder equally spaced in between The brackets are suitable for use with either ungrooved or grooved shaped rails.
If you have bought a grooved rail you can discard the bulk of the infill fillet strip. A short section can be glued into the groove at each end to provide support for the handrail end cap. For round handrails there is a flat section which should be set to the underside and the brackets fixed to this. You will need to provide appropriate wall plugs to suit your construction of wall. –
On the product pages you will find more detailed installation instructions with diagrams to help you visualise how the product should be installed.
We only do the sizes that are available to purchase through the website. Unfortunately we don’t offer bespoke glass.
If you want new stairparts, the easiest thing to do is email us images of your staircase, so we can see exactly what shape your stairs etc and price you up for the most cost effective way. All we need is the length of your staircase and also what products it is you are interested in. You can always give us a call to go through anything else if that is easier for you.
If you want new oak stair cladding, the easiest thing to do is use our request a quote function. This asks some simple questions and also has a drag and drop function to allow you to easily attache images onto the enquiry
All we need to know is how many steps you have and whether there are any turns on your stairs. We’ll get back in touch quickly with a quote personalised to you.
If you prefer to chat through your requirements then you can always give us a call. We’re available weekdays during normal office hours on 0114 247 4917
You will need a Philips screwdriver to install the radiator shelves.
Turn the shelf over and screw the brackets to the underside of the shelf, aligning them to the rear of the shelf. It can help to pilot drill with a 2mm drill bit first.
The first two brackets should be 100mm from each end and any additional brackets equally spaced between them. With your brackets in place, your shelf can now be placed onto your radiator. The brackets will fix the shelf in place behind the radiator – Please see our fitting instructions for diagrams.
The brackets rely on pressing against the rear of the radiator, therefore any normal radiator will accept them.
Old style radiators with individual segments will also accept the shelving but you must take care to line up the brackets with a radiator segment when you fit them to the shelf
No, the brackets screw to the shelf and the shelf slots behind the radiator meaning no holes in your walls and you can easily remove or move the shelf if required.
If you return your product to us within 14 days, we will refund you in full. Don’t worry if you miss this as you then have a further 28 days to return the goods, there will just be a 25% re stocking charge.
Yes we have a showroom based in Killamarsh where you will be able to view most of our ledged doors, flooring, colours and stairparts. We are open Monday – Friday, feel free to call us first to make an appointment with one of our advisors.
Via our courier companies. Depending on the items you purchase we will make sure a suitable courier is used. Many of our items have to be signed for. You will usually receive a text message which will inform you that your items are on the way.
If that day isn’t suitable you can contact the couriers to arrange a better day. If you have ordered a large item, we may need to send this via a pallet company where we will contact you to arrange a suitable date.
We currently don’t have an installation team, however most experience joiners will be able to install any of products.
We supply installation information should any further guidance be required or you wish to install the products yourself. Detailed installation guides are available on most product pages, and are often shipped with the product itself.
Please call if you can’t find a guide for fitting the product you are interested in.